23.1 Introduction
Farther north along the Helgeland coast, the mainland becomes increasingly fragmented.
Roads give way to: ferries, express boats, small harbours, island roads, kayaks, fishing boats, walking trails.
This is the part of Helgeland where travelling slowly becomes part of the experience.
The region covered in this chapter stretches from Tjøtta in the south through the offshore islands of Lovund and Træna to Rødøy near the Arctic Circle.
Unlike the larger destinations covered earlier in this guide, these communities are defined by their small scale and dependence on the sea.
The ideal approach is: arrive → stay → explore → slow down → continue by boat.
23.2 Tjøtta — A Historic Coastal Gateway
Tjøtta lies south of Sandnessjøen along the Coastal Route.
Although it is small, its surroundings contain an unusually rich concentration of history.
The area connects: Viking history, medieval Christianity, Petter Dass, coastal farming, World War II history, ferry routes, modern coastal tourism.
Tjøtta can therefore be used as either a short stop or an overnight base.
23.3 Tjøtta's Viking Heritage
Tjøtta has been inhabited for thousands of years.
The area became an important coastal power centre during the Viking Age.
Historical traditions connect Tjøtta with Hårek of Tjøtta, a powerful Viking chieftain who is associated with the Battle of Stiklestad.
Archaeological remains and burial mounds around the area demonstrate the importance of the settlement long before modern tourism developed.
23.4 Footprints to the North
The cultural landscape around Tjøtta forms part of the Fotefar til Nord heritage network.
Walking through the area provides an opportunity to see: burial mounds, historic farms, church heritage, Viking-era landscapes, coastal scenery.
This is a good example of a Norwegian attraction where the landscape itself is part of the museum.
23.5 Tjøtta International War Cemetery
The Tjøtta International War Cemetery is one of the most important historical sites in the region.
It commemorates victims connected with the sinking of the MS Rigel on 27 November 1944.
More than 2,500 prisoners of war and soldiers died as a result of the disaster. Many of the victims were prisoners of war from Russia, Serbia and Poland.
The cemetery is a place for quiet reflection rather than conventional sightseeing.
Visitors should behave respectfully and avoid treating the site as simply another photographic stop.
23.6 The Rigel Disaster
During World War II, the German-occupied authorities used the MS Rigel to transport troops and prisoners.
On 27 November 1944, the vessel was attacked by British aircraft.
The ship caught fire and was eventually run aground.
The tragedy resulted in one of the largest maritime disasters in Norway during the war.
The cemetery preserves the memory of those who died.
23.7 Tjøtta as an Overnight Base
Tjøtta can be a practical alternative to staying in a larger town.
Tjøtta Gjestegaard operates from a historic nineteenth-century property and provides accommodation and café facilities.
Its location makes it useful for exploring: Alstahaug, Petter Dass Museum, Seven Sisters, Tjøtta heritage sites, ferry connections towards Brønnøysund and Vega.
23.8 The Coastal Ferry Network
From Tjøtta, travellers can continue by ferry towards Forvik and Brønnøysund, while direct ferry connections can also provide access towards the Vega region.
This makes Tjøtta particularly useful for travellers combining road travel with ferry travel rather than following a simple point-to-point route.
23.9 From Mainland to Offshore Islands
After Tjøtta, the character of the journey changes.
The further north you travel, the more useful it becomes to think in terms of an island network rather than a normal road trip.
The principal destinations in this chapter are: Lovund → Træna → Rødøy.
Each has a very different personality.
23.10 Lovund — The Puffin Island
Lovund sits well offshore, between the larger mainland-connected communities of Helgeland.
The island has a small but active year-round community and is famous for its large puffin colony.
Visit Helgeland estimates approximately 200,000–300,000 puffins use the island during the breeding season.
23.11 The Puffin Arrival
A traditional local marker is Lundkommardagen, 14 April.
Around this period, puffins traditionally return from the open sea to the island's nesting cliffs.
The exact arrival and behaviour of wildlife naturally varies from year to year.
Visitors should therefore treat 14 April as a traditional reference date, not a guaranteed wildlife timetable.
23.12 Watching Puffins Responsibly
Puffin watching is one of Lovund's major attractions.
However, visitors should: keep a safe distance, never approach nesting birds, avoid loud noises, follow local signs, keep dogs under control, use binoculars or a telephoto lens.
The objective is to observe the birds without changing their behaviour.
23.13 Lovundfjellet
The island's distinctive mountain rises above the community.
Lovundfjellet reaches approximately 625 metres above sea level.
The hike provides a completely different experience from simply visiting the puffin colony.
From higher ground, visitors can see: open ocean, smaller islands, fishing communities, coastal mountains, changing weather systems.
23.14 Lovund Village
Lovund's settlement is compact. This is part of its attraction.
Instead of a conventional tourist centre, visitors find: homes, harbour, café, hotel, small roads, fishing activity, coastal businesses.
The island demonstrates how a modern community can continue to live far out in the ocean environment.
23.15 Lovund Hotel
Lovund Hotel provides accommodation, dining and a convenient base for exploring the island.
The hotel is particularly useful for visitors who want to stay overnight rather than attempt Lovund as a rushed day trip.
It is close to hiking routes, beaches and the puffin viewing areas.
23.16 Getting to Lovund
Lovund can be reached by: ferry, express boat, private boat.
The island has relatively few roads and limited parking.
Visit Helgeland recommends that travellers bringing a car consider leaving it on the mainland.
This is an important practical point. For many visitors: public transport + walking + bicycle is more convenient than bringing a car.
23.17 Lovund by Express Boat
During summer, the Nordlandsekspressen provides connections along the Helgeland coast.
Year-round express-boat connections also link Lovund with destinations including Sandnessjøen and other southern Helgeland communities.
Schedules are limited compared with mainland bus networks.
Plan your overnight stay around the boat timetable rather than assuming you can return whenever you want.
23.18 Lovund Beaches
Lovund also has beaches and sheltered coastal areas.
A summer day can combine: morning hike → afternoon beach → evening puffin viewing → late dinner.
Because daylight remains long in summer, visitors have considerably more flexibility than they might expect.
23.19 Lovund Photography
Excellent subjects include: puffins, Lovundfjellet, harbour, fishing boats, coastal houses, sea cliffs, Midnight Sun.
A telephoto lens is useful for birds. A wide-angle lens is useful for landscapes.
23.20 Træna — The Outer Edge of Helgeland
Farther offshore lies Træna, one of the most distinctive island communities in Norway.
The archipelago consists of hundreds of islands, islets and skerries.
Its location gives visitors the feeling of being genuinely offshore rather than simply beside the sea.
23.21 Træna's Ancient Settlement
Træna has an exceptionally long human history.
Archaeological discoveries indicate human activity dating back thousands of years, with some finds dating to approximately 9,000 years ago.
The community is therefore not simply a modern fishing village. It represents a very long relationship between people and the open sea.
23.22 Husøy — The Main Island
Husøy is the main community of Træna.
It is compact, colourful and unusually lively for such a remote location.
Visitors can find: café, pub, museum, shops, accommodation, harbour, art, street installations, community facilities.
The compact village makes it easy to explore on foot.
23.23 Træna's Creative Culture
Art is visible throughout Husøy.
Look for: street art, sculptures, crafts, creative public spaces.
The contrast between modern artistic expression and an ancient fishing community gives Træna a distinctive character.
23.24 Træna Museum
Træna Museum documents the history of the archipelago.
Its collections include archaeological material demonstrating the very long history of human settlement.
For travellers interested in understanding why people established communities in such an exposed location, the museum provides useful context.
23.25 Træna Festival
Træna is internationally known for the Træna Festival, held in July.
During the festival, the normally small community changes dramatically as thousands of visitors, artists and volunteers arrive.
The festival takes place across the islands of Husøy and Sanna.
Check the exact festival dates before planning your trip.
23.26 Træna Outside Festival Season
Most travellers will experience Træna when it is much quieter.
This is when the archipelago reveals another personality: quiet harbours, empty roads, sea views, fishing boats, hiking, kayaking, small cafés, long summer evenings.
For slow travel, this can be just as interesting as the festival.
23.27 Sanna
The island of Sanna is one of the most spectacular parts of Træna.
It combines: mountains, beaches, caves, open ocean, hiking trails, small settlements.
The island can be reached by local boat connections from Husøy when services operate.
23.28 Kirkhelleren
One of Sanna's best-known natural attractions is Kirkhelleren, a large natural cave.
The cave has archaeological and cultural significance and forms part of the island's dramatic landscape.
Visitors should check current access conditions and local guidance before entering.
23.29 Trænstaven
Trænstaven is the iconic mountain of Sanna.
It rises approximately 338 metres above sea level.
Although it is not a high mountain by Norwegian standards, its isolated location and steep profile make the ascent a genuine adventure.
Guided climbing/scrambling experiences are available during the summer season.
23.30 Trænstaven Safety
Do not judge the difficulty of a hike only by elevation.
Trænstaven involves: steep terrain, scrambling, exposure, rock, changing coastal weather.
A guided ascent is the sensible option for visitors without suitable climbing experience.
23.31 Easier Træna Experiences
Visitors who do not want a demanding climb can choose: Husøy culture walk, Gompen hike, beach walks, cycling, kayaking, museum, sauna, boat trips.
Visit Helgeland describes Gompen on Sanna as an easier summit experience using an old construction road.
23.32 Selvær
Selvær is the second-largest island community in Træna.
It offers an even quieter coastal experience.
Visitors can explore: fishing culture, small harbour, sea views, birdlife, fishing opportunities, walking routes.
Accommodation is available for travellers who want to spend more than one night in the archipelago.
23.33 Træna by Kayak
Kayaking provides one of the best ways to understand the geography of Træna.
From the water, the relationship between the islands becomes obvious.
Possible experiences include: paddling between skerries, exploring sheltered bays, viewing cliffs from sea level, wildlife observation, beach landings where permitted.
Beginners should use a guided operator.
23.34 Arctic Freediving
Træna also offers opportunities for: freediving, snorkelling, kayaking.
The clear waters can reveal: kelp forests, fish, sandy seabeds, shellfish, underwater rock formations.
Cold-water safety is essential even during summer.
23.35 Rødøy — Gateway to the Arctic Islands
Further north lies Rødøy, a major destination within the northern part of the Helgeland archipelago.
The island combines: white beaches, mountains, forest, small bays, fishing heritage, kayaking, cycling.
The signature landmark is Rødøyløva.
23.36 Rødøyløva
Rødøyløva is one of the most recognisable mountains on the Helgeland coast.
The summit is approximately 443 metres above sea level.
Despite its modest elevation, the mountain rises dramatically above the surrounding islands and sea.
It is also designated as Northern Norway's first National Tourist Trail.
23.37 Hiking Rødøyløva
Difficulty: moderate. One-way distance: approximately 1.5 km. Elevation gain: approximately 443 m. One-way time: approximately 1.5–2 hours.
Most of the steep section uses Sherpa-built stone steps.
23.38 Rødøyløva's Summit
The summit is exposed. There is a steep drop close to the viewpoint.
Visitors must remain well back from the edge.
This is particularly important during: strong wind, rain, fog, winter, night photography.
The view is spectacular, but the edge should never be treated casually.
23.39 Rødøy in Winter
The Rødøyløva trail can be used year-round, but winter conditions require additional equipment.
Visit Helgeland strongly recommends traction cleats during winter because the stone steps can become icy.
A headlamp is essential if hiking during the darker season.
23.40 Rødøy's Beaches
Rødøy has several striking white-sand beaches.
Storsanden is particularly accessible.
The beach can be reached by walking from the area around Klokkergården, and the route passes through forest before opening onto the beach.
The beach provides a gentler alternative to the mountain hike.
23.41 Rødøy by Bicycle
Rødøy is well suited to exploring by bicycle.
Cycling makes it possible to combine: ferry arrival → village → Rødøyløva → beach → café without requiring a car.
The island's relatively small scale makes two wheels particularly practical.
23.42 Rødøy Church
Rødøy Church, built in 1885, reflects the island's long importance as a coastal religious and trading centre.
The harbour historically served travellers moving along the main sea route.
Today, the church and surrounding settlement provide a glimpse into that history.
23.43 Falch Old Trading Post
The Falch Old Trading Post sits beside Tjongsfjord.
Historically it served several community functions, including: fish reception, general store, pharmacy, medical services, fish-oil production, fishing-equipment activities.
It illustrates how a remote trading post could serve an entire coastal community.
23.44 Selsøyvik
Selsøyvik is another historic coastal stop in the Rødøy municipality. Its trading post has long served travellers and local residents.
Today it offers: accommodation, café, guest harbour, sauna, coastal views.
It is particularly attractive for travellers looking for a quiet island stay.
23.45 Rangsundøya
For an even more remote experience, consider Rangsundøya.
The island offers: glamping, kayaking, SUP, boat rental, mountain activities, sauna, open-ocean scenery.
It is an excellent example of modern accommodation integrated into a very remote coastal landscape.
23.46 Island-Hopping with NEX
The Nordlandsekspressen, commonly known as NEX, is one of the key ways to travel between Helgeland's offshore islands.
The summer service can connect destinations including: Sandnessjøen, Lovund, Træna, Rødøy, Bolga, Støtt, Bodø.
Visit Helgeland describes the summer route as an island-hopping opportunity similar in concept to travelling through Europe by rail.
23.47 The Golden Rule of Island Hopping
Do not plan too many islands in one day.
Boat services can be limited. Some routes have only one useful departure in a particular direction each day.
A better strategy is: one island = one experience = one overnight stay.
This makes the journey much less stressful.
23.48 Seven-Day Island Adventure
- Day 1 — Tjøtta: Tjøtta heritage, war cemetery, coastal scenery. Stay in Tjøtta.
- Day 2 — Lovund: travel by ferry or express boat, explore the village and coast. Stay overnight.
- Day 3 — Lovund: puffin viewing, Lovundfjellet, beach. Stay overnight.
- Day 4 — Træna: travel to Træna, explore Husøy. Stay overnight.
- Day 5 — Sanna: Kirkhelleren, Gompen, beach, optional Trænstaven guided experience. Stay in Træna.
- Day 6 — Rødøy: travel north, explore the island. Stay overnight.
- Day 7 — Rødøyløva: hike Rødøyløva, continue towards the mainland or north along the Helgeland coast.
23.49 Five-Day Fast Itinerary
Day 1: Tjøtta → Lovund. Day 2: Lovund → Træna. Day 3: Træna/Sanna. Day 4: Træna → Rødøy. Day 5: Rødøyløva → continue north.
This itinerary requires careful transport planning. It should not be attempted without checking the exact timetable.
23.50 Three-Day Focused Adventure
- Option A — Lovund: puffins, Lovundfjellet, village, beach.
- Option B — Træna: Husøy, Sanna, Kirkhelleren, kayaking.
- Option C — Rødøy: Rødøyløva, beach, cycling, coastal culture.
Trying to combine all three in only three days can create unnecessary travel stress.
23.51 Midnight Sun
The islands are particularly impressive during the bright season.
A normal evening can continue into: late-night cycling, midnight hiking, beach walks, boat trips, photography.
Lovund, Træna and Rødøy all provide excellent opportunities to experience the coastal landscape under low summer light.
23.52 Northern Lights
During the darker season, remote islands can provide very low-light environments.
Possible viewing locations include: Lovund coastline, Træna beaches, Rødøy, Selsøyvik, Rangsundøya.
Visit Helgeland highlights Rødøyløva and nearby beaches as Northern Lights locations.
Always prioritise safe access over finding a darker viewpoint.
23.53 Wildlife
Possible wildlife experiences include: puffins, sea eagles, seabirds, seals, porpoises, coastal fish.
Wildlife is seasonal and unpredictable.
A wildlife tour increases the opportunity for sightings but never guarantees them.
23.54 Fishing
Fishing remains an important part of coastal life.
Visitors can find: guided fishing, sea fishing, boat rental, shore fishing, local seafood.
Træna in particular has fishing experiences and accommodation designed around the archipelago's fishing culture.
Always check local regulations and obtain any required permits.
23.55 Food on the Islands
Island food is naturally connected to the sea.
Look for: fresh fish, shellfish, local seafood, coffee, baked goods, farm products, seasonal ingredients.
On small islands, restaurant choices can be limited. Book ahead when possible.
23.56 Accommodation Strategy
- Tjøtta — best for: history, mainland road trip, ferry connections.
- Lovund — best for: puffins, hiking, comfortable island stay.
- Træna — best for: culture, adventure, kayaking, festival, island life.
- Rødøy — best for: Rødøyløva, beaches, cycling, kayaking.
23.57 Travel Without a Car
This region can actually be more enjoyable without a car.
Use: train/bus → ferry → express boat → bicycle → walking.
Lovund and Træna have limited roads and parking, and local tourism authorities recommend leaving cars on the mainland for island visits.
23.58 Bringing a Bicycle
A bicycle can dramatically improve island travel.
It provides: flexible sightseeing, easy access from ferry terminals, quiet travel, exercise, better photography opportunities.
However, confirm bicycle rules with the ferry or express-boat operator before departure.
23.59 Weather and Sea Conditions
Coastal weather can change quickly.
Before travelling by boat, check: wind, waves, ferry status, boat timetable, carry warm clothing, protect electronics from spray, allow schedule flexibility.
Do not build a tightly connected itinerary where missing one boat ruins the entire trip.
23.60 Responsible Island Travel
Remote communities have limited infrastructure.
Visitors should: respect local residents, keep noise low, use public toilets where available, take rubbish with them, respect private property, keep dogs under control, avoid disturbing birds, follow local camping rules, travel slowly near wildlife.
The Rødøy tourism authority specifically asks visitors to respect wildlife, private property and sensitive nesting areas.
23.61 Camping
Norway's Right to Roam provides opportunities for tent camping on uncultivated land, subject to the applicable rules.
However, on small islands: space is limited, houses may be close together, toilets may be unavailable, waste disposal can be difficult, bird nesting areas may be protected.
Træna's visitor guidance recommends campsites where possible and notes that infrastructure is limited.
23.62 Photography Guide
- Tjøtta: historic buildings, coastal landscapes, war cemetery, Viking heritage.
- Lovund: puffins, Lovundfjellet, harbour, Midnight Sun.
- Træna: Husøy, Sanna, Trænstaven, Kirkhelleren, open ocean.
- Rødøy: Rødøyløva, white beaches, islands, fishing boats.
23.63 Photography Safety
Never place yourself near a cliff edge simply for a better photograph.
This is especially important at: Rødøyløva, Trænstaven, coastal cliffs, bird cliffs.
Use a telephoto lens rather than physically approaching wildlife.
23.64 Family Travel
- Lovund — good for: village walks, beaches, wildlife observation, easy coastal activities.
- Træna — good for: museum, culture walk, beaches, cycling, kayaking.
- Rødøy — good for: beaches, cycling, short walks, family-friendly nature experiences.
The more exposed mountain routes require greater caution.
23.65 Accessibility
Accessibility varies considerably between islands.
Ferry terminals and central village areas are generally easier to access than: mountain trails, beaches, remote paths, natural viewpoints.
Visitors with mobility requirements should check each operator and accommodation provider individually.
Do not assume that a boat-accessible destination is automatically accessible once you arrive.
23.67 Suggested Routes
Main route: Tjøtta → Lovund → Træna → Rødøy → Bodø.
Other places on the way: Sandnessjøen, Stokkvågen, Onøy, Sanna, Husøy, Selvær, Jektvik, Tonnes and Selsøyvik.
The route combines car ferries and express boats, so check both timetables.
23.69 Check Before You Go
Ferry timetables, express-boat schedules, NEX summer route, vehicle restrictions, bicycle rules, Lovund puffin conditions, Lovundfjellet trail conditions, Trænstaven guided tours, Træna Festival dates, Rødøyløva conditions, winter ice conditions, accommodation, restaurant opening days, weather, sea conditions, wildlife restrictions.
Check ferry and express-boat schedules for your travel dates before booking.
23.70 Quick Reference
Southern gateway: Tjøtta. Puffin island: Lovund. Remote archipelago: Træna. Main Træna island: Husøy. Adventure island: Sanna. Signature Træna mountain: Trænstaven. Northern island destination: Rødøy. Signature Rødøy mountain: Rødøyløva. Main transport: ferry + express boat. Best travel style: slow island hopping. Best season: late spring to early autumn. Winter attraction: Northern Lights and quiet coastal landscapes. Ideal duration: 3–7 days.
23.71 Final Takeaway
Tjøtta, Lovund, Træna and Rødøy represent a different side of Norway.
This is not a region where the objective should be to visit as many attractions as possible.
The real experience comes from: the boat crossing, the small harbour, the mountain rising from the sea, the puffins returning to Lovund, the quiet streets of Husøy, the white beaches beneath Rødøyløva, and the long summer light stretching across the ocean.
For travellers with limited time, choose one island and experience it properly.
For travellers with a week, combine several islands and allow the timetable to become part of the adventure.
The most memorable Helgeland journey may not be the one with the longest list of destinations. It may simply be the one where you step off a boat, look around, and realise that there is ocean in every direction.